Jorpokhari: Where Wind Sings Among Pines

A Travelogue to Himalayas by Pritha Lahiri

A travelogue to Jorpokhri - Twin-Lakes in Himalayas… full article to appear in the magazine

"Hey there! I wouldn't venture on this road if I were you. You might encounter a big cat." Husband and I stopped on our tracks. What a splendid welcome remark! The man who said this had already sped away in his jeep. Soon a security personnel from the hotel panted up to us. "Sir, please don't walk on this stretch. It might be dangerous. Tigers or leopards come down sometimes." And that put a full stop to our rendezvous with the forest. A couple of hours ago we had reached Jorpokhri, where the wind sings among pines, and the emerald green surroundings at the back of the hotel surrounded in distance by white snow peaks of eastern Himalayas had seduced us. 

The blue-green hills of eastern Himalayas had beckoned us. In our quest to go far from the jaded monotone of city life, we had travelled to Jorpokhri, a pine-wrapped, mist-enveloped mountaintop in Darjeeling district of India's eastern state of West Bengal. At 7,400 feet it is higher than the queen of Hills, Darjeeling (6,700 feet). Jorpokhri is like a table top on the hills, set amidst lush pine and dhupi forest. In fact, it is part of the Senchal forest and is a nature reserve. Its advantageous position offers visitors a sweeping view of the Himalayan snow peaks, including the majestic Mt. Kanchendzonga, on one side and Darjeeling and Kurseong landscape on the other.

We were up at the crack of dawn the next day to check the weather. Swirling mist and clouds greeted us. Dejected, I went back to sleep. Before 6am in the morning, however, my husband woke me up. He was elated. On a sunny morning, the snowy Himalayas had revealed itself to us!

We had put on our woolens and rushed down to the manicured garden. What we encountered was enchanting, to say the least. The Himalayas stood some distance away in all its splendour and finery, the azure sky completing the setting perfectly. On a clear day and from one side of the lake you can gaze at the breathtaking views of the majestic peaks. On the other side, you can see Darjeeling and Kurseong towns. You can spend hours watching the splendour. The twin lakes make Jorpokhri eponymous. 'Jor' means two and 'pokhri' stands for a lake or water tank leading to the local name alluding towards twin lakes.

The air was rather chilly and we sat down for some coffee at a small shop facing the lake selling momos(dumplings), instant noodles, biscuits, potato chips and beverages. "How do you like spending your time here?" I asked the owner. There were just a few souls around. “It is fine with us," he replied. Pointing to his wife he said, "She helps me around when there's a rush of tourists. In the evenings when my children are back from school the quiet surrounding bubbles with noise," he smiled.

As we were watching the swans swim, he said, "Do you know the Himalayan Salamander used to dwell in the lake? Pity they have vanished," he rued. There is a lovely garden complete with seasonal blooms. Pine trees have been planted on the periphery. Clouds play hide and seek with the sun, often drenching the area. From one side of the lake a paved pathway leads to a stairway and on top, there is a shaded viewing area. This is the place to get the best views of the mountains, the beautifully landscaped gardens, the lake and the rows of pine trees.

Midway there is a small graveyard. Mists floating about the tall pines and the 'tip-tap' tip-tap' of water dripping from the trees add another dimension. I cherish the solitary walks in the winding hills which deliciously offer occasional incursions within. At night one can see the distant lights of Kurseong and Bagdogra (the nearest and only airport). From our perch on Jorpokhri it was wondrous to see lightning light up the sky there. Soon rushing clouds covered the star-studded sky above us.

Jorpokhri is close to the India-Nepal border. A 30-minute car ride took us to Pashupatinath Market on the border. International tourists could go across the border back and forth to enjoy it from the India or the Nepal sides. We strolled into Nepal and spent some time in its bazaar and took in the sights and sound. The roads are comparatively cleaner. There is less traffic. We entered a small 'dhaba' – a road side shack common throughout in India and Nepal, for some tea. "No sugar and milk for me, please," I requested the man. He laughed and countered, "Diabetes?" "Nope," I laughed back. "I prefer it that way."

Another day we took a trip to Chitre, a small mountain village, bang on the Indo-Nepal border. Chitre is the first place along the way to Sandakphu (the highest point in West Bengal) where trekkers and tourists halt for a while. The road and the trekking trail from Mane Bhanjang up to Chitre is considered one of the steepest in the entire stretch to Sandakphu. Chitre's main attraction is the old Buddhist Monastery and the beauteous surroundings. Locals told us that had the sky been clear we would have got an astounding view of Mount Kanchendzonga.

Calm envelopes the monastery. There is silence everywhere. As we walk in, we see a monk arranging butter lamps. Ahead of the main monastery are eight small stupas elevated from the ground. There are acres and acres of undulating meadows, with trees dotted here and there. The surrounding greenery calms us. Colourful flags strung across these meadows, flutter in the wind, the only sound thereabouts. 

There is an asphalt road which cuts through India and Nepal. Here borders merge seamlessly, your I-card is just a piece of paper and all that matters is oneness with Nature…